FAR AWAY TRUTHS.

 

Surfing has its fair share of clichés. Maybe even more so nowadays with social media “feeds” flooding our lives with less and less reality, feeding our ideas of what we want or wish to do.

 
 

Ultimately, trying to put the empha- sis on some kind of truth is useless in a way, without interest. But somehow I find, as I am typing on my keyboard, the only way to escape this task, I am afraid is not a cup of tea, it’s writing.

Yes, surfing has changed. Very much so. But the way it is looked at even more so. Surfing is put in front of your eyes in every possible way, and many see it as a story waiting to be sold. Anyway.

The most disturbing part is not to use it and to roughly embellish through this prism, to alter its essence, its DNA and its story. To not share it well, to the pointofhavingpeoplenotunderstand why they are surfing other than to put something online through their smart- phone.

I have to admit it may very well be the most uncomfortable part to me — the lack of understanding, curiosity and most of all, lack of humility that some people are showing.

There was once a talk about a sub- culture. This word has disappeared in the transmission of said culture and it would be much more constructive to recall the abnegation required when you start surfing rather than to sell a lifestyle, or even to remember sharing what was the essence of surfing.

Surfing can sometimes disappoint. Or at least its actors can. Other times, it gives you a feeling of great energy passing through you, allowing you to clearly do everything right in your life.

Christian Barker aka Wispy is one of these discreet ambassadors that you observe, daydreaming, transforming his humility and kindness into weapons of massive inspiration.

This is an extract from Salt Water Volume 1 “Somewhere Else”

Photography: Fabien Voileau
Surfer: Christian “Wispy” Barker